Making a Pit Stop in Dorchester

For the past couple of months, I’ve been traversing Morton St. in Dorchester regularly. In that time, Pit Stop Barbeque had piqued my interest. A tiny shack across the street from the Morton Street Commuter Rail stop, it looked like the perfect exterior shot for No Reservations.

“That’s either fantastic, or completely terrifying,” I said to a friend as we drove by.

“Why don’t we let Anthony Bourdain or Guy Fieri try it out first and then we’ll go,” he replied.

As devotees of Rino’s in East Boston know, once a celebrity tours your favorite hole-in-the-wall, it’s impossible to get near it again. And when you do finally get a table, the magic is gone. It’s been shared with an audience of millions, never to be recaptured.

But the Pit Stop is not unknown. My friend Michelle and I rolled up in the MimiMobile last night, determined to try a new spot. On the windows, stickers announcing their popularity on Yelp, their Zagat rating, and a spot on Phantom Gourmet proved that this place was not exactly undiscovered. But as we perused the menu and made our order, nary a hipster walked through the door.

We took our styrofoam boxes of meat and sides back to the car, then headed to Michelle’s porch to eat dinner. As we drove, the entire van smelled of smoked meats. We unloaded quickly and took a glimpse at the food we’d purchased. Delirious with hunger, we dove in with our plastic forks.

And lo, the angels sang in the form of delicious, affordable barbeque.

I got chopped beef (the renowned brisket had sold out just before our arrival) and Michelle got beef ribs, which were so massive I believe they came out of a dinosaur, not a cow. With the two sides and cornbread, I paid a little less than $12—a steal compared to other barbeque joints around town. And I lost nothing in the quality from the more popular spots. The meat was smoky and tender. Next time, I will ask them to have a lighter hand with the sauce (as you can see, my beef was almost floating), but it added a small amount of heat that made the meat shine.

The mac and cheese was amazingly rich and cheesy. The potato salad was fine, but I regretted not getting the collard greens, which Michelle said were excellent.

After feasting on the meat and washing it down with a beer, Michelle and I sat on her porch in a protein haze. This morning, she informed me she was still drunk on meat. I’m pretty sure I am too. But that won’t stop me from driving back next weekend for lunch. I want to be sure I make it in time to get some brisket.

Pit Stop Barbeque is at 888A Morton Street, Dorchester. They’re only open Thursday-Sunday. Pro tip: There’s a packie next door and Franklin Park is a short drive away if you like to dine al fresco.

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